Difference between revisions of "Robot Assembly Guide"

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bolt-m2-med.jpg | '''4x''' Socket Head Cap Screw M2.5 x 8
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Revision as of 20:20, 23 May 2017

This page is based on HR-OS5 Research Humanoid Assembly Guide from Trossen Robotics Some of the pictures are changed, so is some of the text to adjust to the General Grievous clone. All steps from 22 and onward is added

Front.jpg


Contents

Kit Parts List

Before you use or charge the included batteries read the battery guide and lithium battery safety instructions and warnings. Do not charge or use if the battery is punctured, damaged, bloated, expanded, swollen, or otherwise deformed. Only use 2 cell, 7.4 V batteries. Do not leave batteries unattended when charging. Monitor batteries during charging for popping, hissing, smoke, sparks or fire. Also monitor the battery for any swelling or other deformities. Disconnect the battery from your charger immediately and do not use if you notice any of these symptoms. Do not charge batteries near flammable material. Charge batteries in a fireproof container when possible. Do not charge batteries while they are installed in your robot.

Hardware

The following hardware is required to build the HR-OS5. Most of these pieces are found in the kits, although they may not be used with the particular piece they are packaged with.

Tools Needed

  • M1.5 hex key
  • M2.0 hex key
  • M2.5 hex key
  • M2.5 nut driver
  • Phillips #0 screwdriver
  • Turbo-Lock blue thread lock (10 mL bottle)
  • Turbo-Lock plastic safe thread lock (2 mL tube)

Pre Steps

Servo Diagram

As you build pay careful attention to the servo ID's and that you are putting the right servos in the right place.
Each step will note what ID numbers to use, but printing out this diagram is very helpful to have while building.
Hros5servos.jpg

Turbo Fuse

Turbo Fuse is non-permanent and plastic safe. It is used to keep nuts and bolts in place on robots since they move and shake around a lot. To use your Turbo Lock, squirt a small amount into a plastic spoon. As you build, before screwing a bolt into your robot, dip the tip of each bolt into the Turbo Lock and brush the excess off onto the side of the spoon. See the video above for more details.

Build Steps

Step 1: Install the Servo Horns (24x)

Unpack the MX-106 and MX-64 servos and servo horns sets.
Collect and set aside the ten M2.5 x 4 screws from the one M3 x 8 screw in each horn set for later use.
Do the same for the MX-28 servos, only here it is M2 and M2.5 screws respectively
Place the thrust washer onto the splined side of the servo horn.
Note the orientation notch on the servo and the notch on the splined side of the servo horn.
Also note that on the non-splined side of the horn there are three small dots; one of which is further away from the other two and directly behind the notch on the back side. This will be referred to as the orientation dot in later steps. If you find this confusing, you may want to mark the orientation dot now with a marker at this time.
Align the orientation notches and gently apply pressure to partially engage the splines.
Confirm the orientation is correct before fully engaging the splines. It is very difficult to remove the horn after installation, and your robot will not work correctly if misaligned.
The thrust washer tends to pop out of position when the horn is pressed on. Stop before fully seating the horn to realign the washer. A small piece of stiff paper, such as a business card can be helpful to seat the thrust washer.
Substantial force may be required to fully seat the horn. This can be done by placing the horn face down on a hard, flat and evenly applying pressure to the back of the servo.
Fasten the horn down with a M3 x 8 screw, for the MX-28 use the M2,5 screw. The screw is sufficiently tight when the horn begins to turn. Do not hold the horn in place when tightening, which could lead to over torquing.
Use the screwdriver to rotate the servo the remainder of one complete clockwise revolution so that it is back to its original orientation.
Don't forget to use the blue thread lock on this and all other screws, except where noted.

Step 2: Attach the Cross Frames to the MX-106 Servos (4x)

Unpack the four cross frame sets, FRO8-X101K. Set aside the four long M2.5 x 8 screws and M2.5 nuts in each set for next step.
Use the four M2.5 x 6 screws to fasten two cross frame pieces to the back side of four MX-106 servos.
The cross frame pieces should be directly behind the the servo horn and oriented to produce the largest possible gap between the cross frame pieces.

Step 3: Build the Ankles and Hips (4x)

Insert two M2.5 nuts into the hex shaped recesses on four MX-106 servos without cross frames. Two of the servos should have nuts on the left side, two on the right side. Each servo only needs two nuts. If you have trouble inserting the nut into the slot, use a small hex key or screwdriver to guide the nut into place and apply pressure.
Install one short 3 pin cable (100 mm length) into each of the four servos. There is only one orientation in which the cable can be inserted. The cable should be installed on the same side as the nuts. You should end up with four servos total, each with one cable installed and two nuts.
The free end of the cable must be routed out towards the bottom of the servo (the shorter distance).
Insert each of the servos prepared in this step into the servos with cross frames prepared in the previous step so that the cable is sandwiched between the servos and the nuts are aligned with the holes in the cross frames.
Insert the nut holder assembly tool into the gap between the servos to hold the nuts in place when tightening. Without it, nuts will tend to fall out when trying to thread the screw (which is technically a bolt in this usage).
Use four M3 x 8 screws on each pair of MX-106 servos. you should end up with four assemblies, two identical mirrored sets.

Step 4: Built and Attach Flange Bearing Frame (4x)

Unpack the four FR05-F101K flange bearing frame sets.
Attach the black disk to the plate using seven or eight M2.5 x 4 screws. The side of the black disk with the diameter should be seated into the hole of the same diameter in the plate.
Insert two M2.5 nuts into the spaces above the cross frame pieces.
Wedge the frame over the faces of the servo with the tabbed end of the frame piece aligned with the center hole of the servo frame. This may require a fair amount of force. It is somewhat easier to insert the frame at one end of the servo and wiggle it along the length until the frame and servo holes are aligned.
Because of large tolerances in the frame dimensions it may be necessary to remove the screw closest to the face with the nuts to successfully install the flange bearing frame.
Note that the 3 pin port on the servo should not be covered by the plate.
Insert the nut holder tool and use four M2.5 x 8 screws to fasten the frame to the servo.

Step 5: Install Ankle/Hip Idlers (4x)

Unpack eight idler bearing sets; two for each of the assemblies.
Press the bearing by hand into large silver ring until it snaps into place.
Snap the small silver cap into the bearing from the same side that the bearing was inserted.
Assemble eight idlers following the same procedure.
Place one idler over each of the eight available attachments points.
Fasten each idler in place using one M3 x 6 screw. Only use the 6 mm long screw included in the idler bearing package. Do not use longer screws and do not over tighten. Using a longer screw may damage the servo.

Step 6: Attach Tibia Plate (2x)

Select two mirrored servo assemblies from the previous steps. When building the legs, the silver idlers will always be on the outside or front of the legs.
If you didn't align the servo horns when you installed them, make sure they are correctly centered now. As shown in the photo, with the "MX-106" text right side up, the orientation dot on the horn should be pointed straight up. The easiest way to align the horn is to turn it clockwise using a hex key in the center screw.
Attach the tibia plate to the servo horn and idler using ten M2.5 x 4 screws.
The flat front of the tibia plate should be co-planar with the unused idler.
The orientation dot on the servo should be on the line between the screw at the center of the servo horn and the center hole in the tibia plate.
The cable should extend up behind the tibia plate.

Step 7: Attach Knee Servo (2x)

Build and attach idlers to two unused MX-106 servos using one M3 x 6 screw on each.
Make sure the servo horns are correctly centered.
Attach each servo to a tibia plate using ten M2.5 x 4 screws. The servo should be upside down (the MX-106 sticker will be upside down) and the silver idler should be on the same side as (and coplanar with) the one on the ankle.
Align the servo horn to point straight down. It should not point at the center of the five tibia screw holes.

Step 8: Build Foot (2x)

Attach one wide bracket to each foot plate using six M2.5 x 6 screws and six M2.5 nuts. Assemble two mirrored copies. Push the bolt through first and fasten it with the nut driver. The bolts should come from the flat side of the foot plate. When all 6 bolts and nuts are in place, tighten the nut down. The side of the foot plate with the bracket is the inside of the foot. The uncovered half of the plate is the outside.
Peel two strips of double sided tape and place them across the bottom of the foot plates as shown.
Press the foot sole plate onto the bottom of the foot bracket.

Step 9: Attach Foot (2x)

Attach the foot assembly to the ankle assembly using ten M2.5 x 4 screws. If you intend to shell the robot, do not use thread lock. This joint will have to be disassembled when installing the shell.
The outside (non-bracket side) of the foot should be underneath the idler side of each leg. The angle should be oriented so that the idler on the front of the ankle is set back from the edge of the foot.
The orientation dot on the servo should point straight down through the wide bracket on the foot.

Step 10: Build and Attach Thigh (2x)

Unpack a side frame set and attach it to the outside of a long bracket using eight M2.5 x 6 screws and eight M2.5 nuts. Orient the side frame tabs to extend past the edge of the long bracket. For ease of access later, insert the screws so that the socket heads are on the inside of the long bracket.
Insert two M2.5 nuts into the slots on the knee servo. Use the face of the servo that only has two nut slots.
Press the side frame piece over the knee servo with the frame tabs pointing to the back of the leg and the tab holes unused.
Insert the nut holding tool and fasten the side frame to the servo using four M2.5 x 6 screws.

Step 11: Attach Hip (2x)

Select and orient an unused MX-106 hip assembly from step 3 as shown. Only one of the hip assemblies can be oriented correctly. Make sure you use the correct one. The silver idlers must be on the outside and front of the leg and the cable must hang down towards to foot.
Before screwing the hip together, check the servo horn orientation. The servo attached to the thigh is right-side up with the orientation point directed straight upward.
Fasten the hip servo horn and idler to the thigh using ten M2.5 x 4 screws (only three screws per side are shown in the photos for this step).

Step 12: Build Arm (2x)

Unpack a side frame set and attach it to the outside of a 45° bracket using eight M2.5 x 6 screws and eight M2.5 nuts. Orient the side frame so that the frame legs are pointed away from the 45° bracket. Also, the tabs must be oriented parallel to the longer side of the bracket.
Create a mirrored set of arm brackets, with the frame tabs pointing in opposite directions.
Build and install an idler on four MX-64 servos; secure each with a M3 x 6 screw.
Select two of the MX-64 servos and insert two M2.5 nuts into the bottom face of each.
Use the nut holder tool and fasten the side frame to the nutted servo using four M2.5 x 6 screws.
Peel the paper off of eight clear plastic spacers and place one each over the servo horn and idler of the four MX-64 servo.
Note: do not use blue thread lock on this joint, it is not plastic safe. Instead use plastic safe thread lock which is clear and smells like a super glue. Using the blue thread lock could cause the clear plastic spacers to shatter.
Attach an additional 45° bracket to each assembly using ten M2.5 x 6 screws. When viewed from the front (as in the photos) the longer side of the bracket should be on the opposite side of the arm as the side frame tabs. On the arms, the idlers are always oriented toward either the inside or rear of the robot.
Place a servo with spacers between the armature of the 45° brackets used in the previous step. The orientation point on the servo horn should be pointed at the center hole of the five ringed holes on the bracket.
Attach the servo to the 45° bracket using ten M2.5 x 6 screws.
You should have two mirrored sets of arms at the end of this step.

Step 13: Attach Side frames to MX-106 (2x)

Insert four M2.5 nuts into each of two MX-106 servos. Use the slots closest to the horn on both sides of the servo.
I have modified the Side Frames to get rid of the M2.5 nuts. Use a M3 tap and make four new threads in each of the four side frames.
Insert and attach the MX-106 servos to the side frames using eight M2.5 x 6 screws in the tapped holes and eight M2.5 x 8 screws in the holes where nuts are.

Step 14: Assemble Shoulders (1x)

Attach four M3 x 25 aluminum hex standoffs to the lower shoulder plate using four M3 x 8 screws. The standoffs should be on the side of the plate without side frames.
Attach the MX106 servos with side frames to the lower shoulder plate using eight M2.5 x 8 and eight M3 x 8 screws. Note that the plate is not symmetrical; the round hole pattern is not in the center of the part. Orient the side frame so that the side without tabs is the shorter distance from the edge.
Attach the upper shoulder plate with the frame tabs extending over the long edge.
Use eight M2.5 x 8 and eight M3 x 8 screws attaching the shoulder plate to the side frames.
The tabs on the upper shoulder side frames should be directly above the tabs on the lower shoulder side frames.

Step 15: Mount Arbotix Pro Controller and Attach Below Shoulder (1x)

Mount the Arbotix Pro controller to the Arbotix Pro plate using four M3 x 5 long spacers, four M3 x 14 screws, and four M3 hex nuts.
Attach four M3 x 4 long spacers, four M3 x 14 screws, and four M3 x 25 hex standoffs to the four outermost homes in the Arbotix Pro plate.
Mount the Arbotix Pro plate to the underside of the lower shoulder plate using four M3 x 14 screws. The three small buttons on the Arbotix Pro should be on the same side as the horns of the shoulder servos.

Step 16: Prepare NUC Computer Hardware (1x)

Install the ram into the lower memory slot. Insert it at an angle as shown and then push straight down to lock in place.
Remove the two Phillips screws from the posts adjacent to the narrow slots.
Install the WiFi card in the lower slot. Reinstall the Phillips screws to hold the WiFi card down.
Add miniature antenna to the WiFi card (not shown).
Install the solid state drive in the slot above the WiFi card.
Reinstall the Phillips screw to secure the solid state drive.
Additional steps are required to make the NUC computer ready to use, but for clarity are not covered in this assembly guide.

Step 17: Mount NUC Computer and Attach Below Controller (1x)

Attach four M3 x 10 hex standoffs and four M3 x 1 spacers to the NUC plate using four M3 x 6 screws. The standoffs and spacers should be on the same side as the installed chips.
Attach five M3 x 10 hex standoffs to one side of the NUC plate using five M3 x 8 button head screws.
Mount the NUC to the plate using four M3 x 8 button head screws.
Mount the combined NUC assembly under the Arbotix-Pro controller using four M3 x 14 button head screws.
The NUC assembly should be oriented so that the USB ports (blue) on the NUC computer are on the same side as the three small white push buttons on the Arbotix-Pro controller.

Step 18: Build Top of Hips and Below NUC Computer (1x)

Insert twenty-four M2.5 nuts into the two remaining MX-64 servos. Use every slot except those on the long faces furthest from the servo horns.
Mount the upper torso plate to the MX-64 servos as shown. Use eight M2.5 x 10 screws. The plate should be attached on the side without servo horns.
Use five M3 x 8 socket head screws to attach the upper torso plate to the hex standoffs on the bottom of the NUC plate.

Step 19: Build Remainder of Torso (1x)

Press the torso plate over the MX-64 servos. The rounded notch in the plate should be oriented to fit over the servo horns.
Attach the lower torso plate with twelve M2.5 x 10 button head cap screws.
Attach two wide brackets to the MX-64 servo horns using sixteen M2.5 x 4 screws.

Step 20: Attach Arms to Torso (1x)

Bend the 45° brackets at the top of the arms inward to access the bracket mounting holes.
Use sixteen M2.5 x 4 screws to attach the arms to the torso.
When looking at the assembled torso, the two blue USB ports are on the front side.

Step 21: Attach Legs to Torso (1x)

Use twenty M2.5 x 4 screws to attach the legs to the torso.

Step 22: Assemble grippers (2x)

Step 22.1: Attach gripper brackets to MX-28

Build and install an idler on two MX-28 servos; secure each with a M2.5 x 8 screw.
Attach the FR07-E170 to the MX-28 and secure with six M2.5 x 6 screws
Attach the FR07-E171 to the MX-28 and secure with ten M2 x 3 screws

Step 22.2: Attach Side Frame Set to Arm yaw servo (2x)

Step 22.3: Attach Arm yaw servo to gripper (2x)

Insert two M2.5 nuts into the spaces above the cross frame pieces.
Wedge the frame over the faces of the servo with the tabbed end of the frame piece aligned with the center hole of the servo frame. This may require a fair amount of force. It is somewhat easier to insert the frame at one end of the servo and wiggle it along the length until the frame and servo holes are aligned.
Note that the 3 pin port on the servo should not be covered by the plate.
Insert the nut holder tool and use four M2.5 x 6 screws to fasten the frame to the servo.

Step 22.4: Assemble MX-28 to MX-64 crossover and attach to Gripper (2x)

Assemble the side frame with the back frame with four M2.5 x 4 screws, with the head on the FR05 side bracket
Attach MX-28 to MX-64 crossover on the back of the yaw servo with four M2.5 x 6 screws

Step 23: Attach Hand to Arm (2x)

Insert two M2.5 nuts into the spaces above the cross frame pieces.
Wedge the frame over the faces of the servo with the tabbed end of the frame piece aligned with the center hole of the servo frame. This may require a fair amount of force. It is somewhat easier to insert the frame at one end of the servo and wiggle it along the length until the frame and servo holes are aligned.
Note that the 3 pin port on the servo should not be covered by the plate.
Insert the nut holder tool and use four M2.5 x 6 screws to fasten the frame to the servo.

Step 24: Assemble the Head

Step 24.1: Attach ESTM to NeckMount

Fasten the pillow block bearing to the neck mount with 4 M2.5 x 8 screws.

Step 24.2: Attach MX28-AT to Neck Mount

Insert eight M2.5 nuts into the spaces on the idler sider of the MX-28.
Attach MX-28 to NeckMount using eight M2.5 x 6 screws

Step 24.3: Assemble Neck Mount to two KSTM's

Insert four M4 x ?? screws from the holes in the Neck Mount.
Attach two KSTM's to the Neck Mount using four M4 nylon lock nuts.

Step 24.4: Assemble Neck Head Adapter to two KSTM's

Insert four M4 x ?? screws from the holes in the Neck Head Adapter.
Attach two KSTM's to the Neck Head Adapter using four M4 nylon lock nuts.

Step 24.5: Assemble Head Mount to MX-28

Build and install an idler on the MX-28 servo; secure it with a M2.5 x 8 screw.
Insert six M2.5 nuts into the spaces on the MX-28 according to picture.
Attach MX-28 to Head Mount using six M2.5 x 6 screws.

Step 24.6: Assemble Head and Neck Mount

Insert seven M3 x ?? screws from the holes in the Head Mount to the Neck Head Adapter.
Attach the Neck Head Adapter using seven M3 nylon lock nuts.

Step 24.7: Assemble Tilt Arms to Head and Neck Mount

Attach the Tilt Arms to the MX-28 using 20 M2 x 3 screws.

Step 24.8: Assemble Head and Neck

Connect the Head and Neck together using two M6 screws through the KSTM's.
Secure the screws in place using two Hex Nylon Lock Nuts.

Step 24.9: Attach EGZM's between Head and Neck

Connect the EGZM to the Head and Neck using one M6 screw for each bearing.
Secure the screws in place using four Hex Nylon Lock Nuts.

Step 25: Wire up everything

Step 25.x: Plug in the Cables

Plug in the 5 cables to the 5 3pin ports on the back of the Arbotix Pro. DO NOT plug into the 4pin ports.
The order of the cables is not important, but it's recommended plugging them in from left to right as follows: Left Leg / Left Arm / Pan Servo / Right Arm / Right Leg.